How to Get Rid of Bats Humanely: A Homeowner’s Guide to Exclusion

 

Finding out that a colony of bats has taken up residence in your attic or behind your shutters can be an overwhelming discovery. While your first instinct might be to find a quick way to "get rid of them," it is important to approach the situation with both caution and compassion. Bats are not traditional "pests" like termites or cockroaches; they are a vital part of our ecosystem, with a single bat capable of consuming up to 1,200 mosquito-sized insects in just one hour.

Because many bat species are protected by state and federal laws, the only legal and ethical way to remove them from a building is through a process called exclusion. This method allows bats to leave the house on their own but prevents them from crawling back inside.

This guide will walk you through the humane exclusion process, ensuring your home is secured without harming these beneficial neighbors.

The Golden Rule: Timing is Everything

Before you seal a single crack, you must understand the "maternity season." In most parts of North America, bats give birth to flightless young (called pups) in the late spring and summer.

If you perform an exclusion during this time, the adult bats will fly out at night, but the pups will be trapped inside. This leads to two tragic and unpleasant outcomes: the humane crisis of the pups starving, and a significant odor and sanitation problem for the homeowner.

  • Best Time for Exclusion: Early spring (before pups are born) or late summer/early autumn (once pups are strong enough to fly).

  • The "No-Fly" Zone: Generally, exclusions should not be performed between mid-May and mid-August. Always check your local wildlife regulations for specific blackout dates in your state.

Step 1: Identify All Entry and Exit Points

Bats don't need a wide-open door to enter your home. They can squeeze through gaps as small as 1/2 inch—roughly the size of a human thumb.

To find their "front door," perform a "Bat Watch" at twilight. Sit outside about 30 minutes before sunset and watch your roofline, chimney, and eaves. Look for fluttering shapes emerging from specific gaps. You may also notice dark, oily "rub marks" or small piles of guano on the siding directly below these holes.

Common entry points include:

  • Gaps where the chimney meets the roofline.

  • Loose or warped fascia boards and soffits.

  • Ridge vents and gable vents with damaged screening.

  • Points where utility lines enter the structure.

Step 2: Seal the "Non-Essential" Openings

Once you have identified where the bats are coming and going, you can begin sealing the house. However, do not seal the main entry points yet.

Use high-quality materials like heavy-duty exterior caulk, expandable foam (if appropriate for the area), or hardware cloth (1/4 inch wire mesh). Seal every small crack, crevice, and gap around the perimeter of your home except for the primary holes the bats are currently using. This ensures that when the exclusion begins, the bats aren't forced deeper into your living spaces looking for a new way out.

Step 3: Install One-Way Exclusion Devices

The heart of a humane removal is the one-way door. These devices allow bats to exit the home but are designed so the bats cannot figure out how to climb back in.

Common Exclusion Tools:

  • Bat Cones: Plastic funnels that are taped or screwed over the entry hole. Bats fly down through the wide end and out the narrow tip.

  • Netting/Valves: Lightweight plastic mesh or "tubes" draped over the opening. Bats can crawl down and drop out from under the bottom, but the mesh collapses against the house when they try to fly back up.

Install these devices over the primary entry points and leave them in place for at least 5 to 7 consecutive days of clear, warm weather. This ensures that every member of the colony has had a chance to leave for food.

Step 4: Final Sealing and Cleanup

After a week of activity-free nights, you can remove the exclusion devices and permanently seal those final holes with permanent materials like metal flashing or wood.

Once the bats are gone, the focus shifts to the attic. Cleaning up accumulated waste should be done with extreme care.

  1. Wear Protection: Always use an N95 or N100 respirator and gloves.

  2. Dampen the Area: Lightly mist guano with a bleach-and-water solution to prevent dust (and potential fungal spores) from becoming airborne.

  3. Vacuum Carefully: Only use vacuums equipped with HEPA filters. Standard shop vacs will blow microscopic spores throughout your home.

Step 5: Offer an Alternative (The Bat House)

If you enjoy the insect-control benefits of bats but just don't want them in your rafters, consider installing a bat house.

Mounting a professionally designed bat house on a pole or a nearby tree (at least 15 feet high) provides the colony with a safe, warm place to relocate. When bats have a "luxury apartment" waiting for them nearby, they are much less likely to try and fight their way back into your attic next season.

When to Call a Professional

If your home has a complex roofline, if the colony is exceptionally large, or if you are uncomfortable working at heights, it is best to hire a professional wildlife relocation service. Look for companies that specify "humane exclusion" rather than "pest control" or "extermination."

By following these steps, you protect your home’s value and your family’s health while allowing these remarkable animals to continue their important work in nature.



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